Archive-name: greek-faq/tourism Last-modified: 1994/03/31 Soc.Culture.Greek Frequently Asked Questions and Answers ======================================================== (Tourist Information) ===================== Last Change: 20 July 1993 Many FAQs, including this one, are available on the archive site rtfm.mit.edu [18.70.0.209] in the directory pub/usenet/news.answers. The name under which a FAQ is archived appears in the Archive-name line at the top of the article. This FAQ is archived as greek-faq/tourism There's a mail server on that machine. You send a e-mail message to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu containing the keyword "help" (without quotes!) in the message body. Items Changed: -------------- None (Ugh!) -- Lines which got changed, have the `#' character in front of them. Added lines are prepended with a `+' Removed lines are just removed. Use 'diff' to locate these changes. I have included my comments within braces '[' and ']'. Nikolaos Fotis ======================================================================== This text is (C)Copyright 1992, 1993, 1994 of Nikolaos C. Fotis. You can copy freely this file, provided you keep this copyright notice intact. Compiled by Nikolaos (Nick) C. Fotis, e-mail: nfotis@theseas.ntua.gr Please contact me for updates,corrections, etc. Disclaimer: that's only a hasty collection of texts and information as I (or other people) remember it, so this file is worth only what you paid for it (and even less! ;-) ) ======================================================================== Subjects: ========= [ NOTE: This part covers generic tourist information about Greece. Your best bet is to get a travel guide, if you're seriously thinking about traveling to Greece - I'm trying to put there references more than data -- nfotis ] 1. Travel Information -- Greece 2. GNTO (Greek National Tourism Organisation) addresses 3. General travelling advice from USENET folks 4. Average temperatures in Greece 5. Some items found on a Greek menu 6. Counting in Greek 7. Countries in Greek 8. Months in Greek 9. Cultural Events : Festivals 10. Clothing suggestions for Greece 11. General info: Sites, museums, monuments 12. Athens Restaurants ====================================================================== 1. Travel Information -- Greece =============================== [ Note: that's a time limited subject. The time you read this, it may be already out-of-date, so *please* check with the respective embassies/ consulates before starting to prepare for a travel to Greece. This information has a U.S. bias (of course!) ] Newsgroup: rec.travel From: kardaras@ec.ecn.purdue.edu (George S Kardaras) -------------------------------- Subject: *NEW* TRAVEL INFORMATION -- Greece STATE DEPARTMENT TRAVEL INFORMATION - Greece ============================================================ Greece - Consular Information Sheet [ VERSION: April 29, 1993 ] Embassy and Consulate Locations: The U.S. Embassy in Athens is located at 91 Vasilissis Sophias Boulevard, telephone (30-1) 721-2951. The Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy may be reached at (30-1) 721-8561. The U.S. Consulate in Thessaloniki is located at 59 Leoforos Nikis, telephone (30-31) 266-121. No. 93-078 This replaces the Consular Information Sheet issued October 7, 1992, to provide information on driving conditions in Greece, and to add information on reporting the loss or theft abroad of a U.S. passport. ---- Country Description: Greece is a developed and stable democracy with a modern economy. Tourist facilities are widely available. Entry Requirements: A passport is required. A visa is not required for tourist or business stays up to three months. An AIDS test is required for performing artists and students on Greek scholarships; U.S. test results are not accepted. For further information concerning entry requirements to Greece, travelers can contact the Embassy of Greece at 2221 Massachusetts Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20008, telephone (202) 939-5800, or the nearest Consulate General in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, New Orleans, New York, or San Francisco. Medical Facilities: Medical facilities are available. U.S. medical insurance is not always valid outside the United States. Travelers have found that in some cases, supplemental medical insurance with specific overseas coverage has proved to be useful. Further information on health matters can be obtained from the Centers for Disease Control's international travelers hotline on (404) 332-4559. Crime Information: Greece has a low rate of crime, but some pickpocketing, purse-snatching, and luggage theft does occur in Greece at popular tourist areas. The loss or theft abroad of a U.S. passport should be reported immediately to the local police and the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate. The Department of State's pamphlet "A Safe Trip Abroad" is available from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402. It provides useful information on guarding valuables and protecting personal security while traveling abroad. Terrorist Activities: Civil disorder is rare. However, there are several active terrorist groups, including the "17 November" organization, which at times has targeted U.S. Government and U.S. commercial interests. Between 1975 and 1991, "17 November" assassinated four Americans assigned to U.S. diplomatic or military installations in Greece. Terrorists in Greece have seldom targeted tourists. Drug Penalties: U.S. citizens are subject to the laws of the country in which they are traveling. In Greece, penalties for possession, use, and trafficking in illegal drugs are strict, and convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and fines. Arrestees may spend up to 18 months in pretrial confinement. Dual Nationality: U.S. citizens who are also considered to be Greek citizens could be subject to compulsory military service and other aspects of Greek law while in Greece. Those who may be affected can inquire at a Greek Embassy or consulate to determine status. In some instances, dual nationality may hamper U.S. government efforts to provide protection abroad. Driving: Visitors to Greece must be prepared to drive defensively. Greece has the third highest fatal accident rate in Europe. High casualty rates on Greek highways led to a recent toughening of traffic laws and new increased traffic police presence on major roads. The use of motorbikes on the islands can be dangerous because of heavy traffic and difficulty of the terrain. The majority of U.S. citizen traffic casualties in Greece have involved motorbikes. Owners of rental motorbikes are not required to carry insurance coverage; the renter is liable for damages caused to the rental vehicle and to property of third parties. Registration: U.S. citizens who register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy or Consulate can obtain updated information on travel and security in Greece. ====================================================================== 2. GNTO (Greek National Tourism Organisation) addresses ======================================================= From: ccc@cs.toronto.edu ("Christina C. Christara") ---- GNTO (Greek National Tourism Organisation) or EOT (Ellinikos Organismos Tourismou) has many offices around the globe. Some of these are: 645, Fifth Avenue, Olympic Tower New York N.Y., 10022, U.S.A. Tel. 421 57 77 611, West Sixth Str., Los Angeles, California, 90017, U.S.A. Tel. 626 66 96 168 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago Illinois, 60601 Tel. 782 10 84 51-57 Pitt Str. Sydney N.S.W. 2000, Australia Tel. 241 1663/4 1233 rue de la Montagne Montreal Quebec, H3G 1Z2, Canada Tel. 871 15 35 68 Scollars Str., Lower Level Toronto Ontario, M5S 1G2, Canada Tel. 968 22 20 3-16-30 Nishi Azabu, Minato-Ku Tokyo 106, Japan Tel. 403 18 11 2 Amerikis Str. Athens, Greece Tel. (01) 322 31 11 8, Aristotelous Place Thessaloniki, Greece Tel. (031) 271 888, 222 935 ====================================================================== 3. General travelling advice from USENET folks ============================================== From: ccc@cs.toronto.edu ("Christina C. Christara") ---- 1) Don't be disappointed if you find customs/passport officials "heavy" and impolite. 2) Do not ever show your 5 fingers open from the inside part of the hand. It is considered a bad gesture. But the outside part of the hand is ok. 3) Don't pay more than 1500-2000 drs for taxi from Athens airport to city (unless I am very out-of-date). Sometimes taxi drivers ask people who look Americans or similar more money than they should. 4) Greece is relatively safe with respect to crime, theft, etc. (This does not mean that you sleep on a bench and leave your wallet in open view...) 5) Public transportation is relatively cheap; in some cases crowding occures. 6) You can buy beer, wine, etc, anywhere anytime, you don't need any id/age proof. 7) 2:30-5:00 pm is considered "quiet time", mainly in the cities, but in hotels too. Don't make too much noise during that time. (People have a big lunch around 2-3pm, and then take a nap.) Of course, after 12 midnight till 7am is also quiet time. 8) If you drive, take care of pedestrians (and other cars too). They tend to cross streets "illegally". 9) Few roads in Greece are straight. So if you plan to drive, don't take into account barely the kilometres, but also whether you are crossing a mountain, etc. (like in Delphi). 10) Eat a lot of fruit. They are in general of better quality than fruit found in North America (more fresh, more tasty, more juicy) ====================================================================== 4. Average temperatures in Greece ================================= From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis> ---- Average Temperatures --------------------- Athens and Thessalonki and Months Southern Greece Northern Greece ------------------------------------------------------------ January 52 F 12 C 45 F 8 C February 54 F 13 C 51 F 11 C March 58 F 15 C 54 F 13 C April 65 F 19 C 65 F 19 C May 74 F 24 C 74 F 24 C June 86 F 30 C 86 F 30 C July 92 F 33 C 90 F 32 C August 92 F 33 C 90 F 32 C September 82 F 28 C 80 F 27 C October 72 F 23 C 69 F 21 C November 63 F 18 C 58 F 15 C December 56 F 14 C 50 F 10 C (in degrees) ====================================================================== 5. Some items found on a Greek menu =================================== From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis> ---- Menu Decoder (this is from one of my travel guides) ------------ Most menus are written in Greek and English, but even in the all-Greek taverna they keep approximately the same layout. kover - cover charge entrades - entrees, esp. meat dishes artos - bread psita - grills orektika - appetizers tis oras - ala minute/while you wait soupes - soups salatas - salads zymarika - pasta tyria - cheeses psaria - fish frouta - fruit thalassina - seafood glyka - sweets ladera - vegetables cooked in oil pota - drinks kymades - minced meat byres - beer oinoi leykoi/erythroi/kokkineli - white/red/rose wines (written in katharevousa) anapsyktika - soft drinks When the menu is handwritten and illegible, go into the kitchen and look in the pots (lots of places want you to go and point out your choice) Aginares a la polita - small artichokes cooked in a white onion-celery- sauce. Ahinos - sea urchin. Angouri - cucumber. Araka - green peas. Ahladi - pear. Arnaki galaktos - baby lamb. Astakos - crayfish/lobster. Arni - lamb ( a) exohiko - baked country-style with peas, potatoes and cheese in flaky pastry b) frikase - sauteed with lettuce, spring onions and dill in egg and lemon.) Avgolemono - chicken broth with rice, lemon and egg Baklava - thin pastry layers stuffed with nuts and spices, doused in syrup. Barbounia - red mullet, possibly the best Greek fish. Bougatsa - custard tart. Damaskina - plums. Grep - grapefruit. Dolmades - vine or cabbage leaves rolled and stuffed with meat and/or rice. Dolmadakia - tiny Dolmades. Elies - olives (best from Delphi - large purple and Kalamata(pointed black) Fakies - lentils, often in soup. Fasolia - white beans often in soup with vegetables. Galaktoboureko - flaky pastry with a custard filling, doused with syrup. Feta - most popular Greek cheese, salty and white made from goats milk. Horiatiki - peasant salad with cucumber,tomato,onio,olives and feta. Kadaifi - shredded-wheat pastry with nuts, soaked in syrup. Karpouzi - watermelon. Kotopoulo - chicken. ====================================================================== 6. Counting in Greek ==================== From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis> ---- english greek ------- ---------- one EHnahss, meeAH, EHnah two DHEEo three TREEah four TEHssehrah five PEHNdeh six EHksee seven ehpTAH eight okTO nine ehneeAH ten DHEHkah ====================================================================== 7. Countries in Greek ===================== From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis> ---- Lets try the question : Where do you come from? English Greek --------- ---------- Africa aHFREEKEE Asia ahSSEEah Australia ahfstrahLEEah Europe ehvROppee North America VOrreeoss ahmehreeKEE South America NOtteeoss ahmehreeKEE Albania ahlvahNEEah Canada kahnahDHAH Germany yehrmahNEEah Greece ehLAHdhah South Africa NOtteeoss ahfreeKEE Spain eespahNEEah Turkey tooRKEEah United States eenoMMEHnehss polleeTEEehss ====================================================================== 8. Months in Greek ================== From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis> ---- Lets try Months this time.... English Greek ------ ------- January eeahnooAHreeoss February fehvrooAHreeoss March MAHRteeoss April ahPREEleeooss May MAHeeoss June eeOOneeoss July eeOOleeoss August AHVghoostoss September sehpTEHMvreeoss October oKTOvreeoss November noEHMvreeoss December dhehKEHMvreeoss some phrases: in September to sehpTEHMvreeo since October ahPO tonn oKTOvreeo the beginning of January ee ahRKHEHSS too eeahnooahREEoo the middle of February tah MEHssah too fehvrooahREEoo the end of March tah TEHlee too mahrTEEoo ====================================================================== 9. Cultural Events : Festivals ============================== From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis> ---- Here is information on various Festivals held in Greece. THE ATHENS FESTIVAL ___________________ Greece's internationally acclaimed Athens Festival light up summer nights in Athens. Performances of prominent companies are stages from June through September in the ancient open-air amphitheater, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus at the foot of the Acropolis. The 5,000 seat theater, specially designed for musical and dramatic performances in 161 A.D. was commissioned by the wealthy Roman benefactor, Herodes Atticus, in memory of his late wife. Decorated in marble and monumental in size, it has served as a vital part of Greek culture since ancient times when musicans, dancers, dramatists and poets performed in festivals for the favor of the gods. The panorama of the Parthenon is the theater's productions, making todays performances even more breathtaking for audiences arriving from throughtout the world. Tickets are less costly than they would be back home. They range from $4.00 to $40.00, depending on the performance, and can be obtained through the Athens Festival office on Voukourestiou Street or at the Box Office. Visitors are advised to buy tickets upon arrival in Athens. Most performances begin at 9 p.m. (Studentid cards might help to get discounts) EPIDAURUS FESTIVAL ------------------ Inaugurated in 1954, the Epidaurus Festival was soon established as a world renowned tradition of ancient Greek drama performances. The ancient theater at Epidaurus (seating capacity of 14,000) was built to plans drawn by the architect Polycleitos the Younger in the 3rd century B.C. and is famous for its accoustics and beauty. Excursion clubs and travel agencies combine attendance to the performances with visits to the archaeological sites at Epidaurus and Argolis. The Festival is held during weekends July through September, and performances start at 9 p.m. (if you can visit this theatre and site. I have not seen a performance there but the site itself is worth the visit) Philipi and Thassos Festival ----------------------------- July-August-September Ancient drama performances are also given in the ancient theatres at Philippi and on the island of Thassos. Patras International Festival ----------------------------- June-August Various artisitc performances, art exhibitions, etc. are taking place in Patras, capital of the Peloponnese. Dodoni Festival --------------- July-September Performances of historic drama are likewise given in the ancient theatre at Dodoni. Lycabettus Theater ------------------ Mid June-Late August Various artistic performances are given during the summer season in the open air theater on Lycabettus (Likavitos) Hill. Sound and Light --------------- Early April-Late October Performances are given in Athens and Rhodes in several foreign languages Also in Corfu from mid-May to late September. Film Festival and Festival of Popular Song at Thessaloniki ---------------------------------------------------------- As part of the Thessaloniki International Trade Fair, a Festival of Greek Popular Song is held in the Palais de Sports which is located inside the grounds of the fair. As soon as the Fair is over, two interesting festivals of Greek and foreign films are organized. Both events take place in the theatre of the Association of Macedonian Studies. a) September Greek Song Festival b) Beginning of October, Greek & Foreign Film Festival The Thessaloniki Demetria Festival ---------------------------------- As a part of the border program which accompanies the International Trade Fair, there is an annual October series of theartical, musical, ballet, and operatic performances, given by Greek and foreign companies as a revival of the tradition of Byzantine festive events in the capital of Macadonia. Folk Dancing(I saw this company perform and they are GREAT) ------------ From May to September each year, there are performances of Greek Dancing at the open-air theater on Filopappus Hill in Athens, presented by the Dora Stratou song and ballet troupe, which is well known throughtout the world. Tel:324-4395 (8am - 2pm), 921-4650, after 5:30pm (This theatre is located accross from the Acropolis, I recommend this event, to see the different dances from around Greece. ) On the island of Rhodes, from June to October every year, the Nelly Dimoglou troupe presents Greek folk dancing in the theater of the old town of Rhodes. Tel:(0241)20157 Theater ------ Classical and modern repertoire is presented in Athenian theaters all year round. The two organized State Theatrical companies, the National Theater in Athens and the Northern Greece National Theater at Thessaloniki follow the festival program organized by the G.N.T.O. In winter, they present noteworthy plays by Greek and foreign playwrights. The Lyric Theater ----------------- Known in Greece as the Lyriki Skini, it presents its performances at Olympia Theater at 59, Akadimias Street, in Athens. Various operatic plays are performed, often starring foreign artists. In summer, the Lyriki Skini transfers its activities to the Herod Atticus Odeon by participating in the Athens Festival. ====================================================================== 10. Clothing suggestions for Greece =================================== From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis> ---- CLOTHING SUGGESTIONS FOR TRAVELING TO/IN GREECE Summer: May through September ----------------------------- Casual clothing made of lightweight fabrics and good walking shoes are essential. A shawl, sweater and/or jacket is recommended for cooler evening breezes (depending on temperature of the day and visiting location in Greece). I suggest bring a jacket or sweater . When I have been in the mountains and cruising a jacket was handy. Last summer I was in Athens when it rained and I was glad I had the jacket. Winter: Mid November through Mid March -------------------------------------- A wardrobe of matching coordinates, made of manmade fibers and/or wool which allow for minimum and maximum warmth for varying temperatures is suggested. A topcoat with Zip-out lining is also advised. Spring/Fall: Mid March through April; October through Mid November ------------------------------------------------------------------ Lightweight wools or topcoat are suggested. Dining: ------- Informal attire, except for some selected resturants which require tie and jacket for men. Casinos: -------- Dress is more formal than in North America. Jacket and tie mandatory for men. Archaeological Sites: --------------------- Swimsuits are prohibited. Wear comfortable shoes, parts are rocky, hot, and its possible to slide wear the marble has worn down to a smooth finish.Some sites you do a lot of climbing and it can be difficult on the feet if not supported. Monasteries and Churches: ------------------------- Women are required to wear appropriate length dresses or skirt with sleeved blouse. Men are required to wear slacks and a shirt. What I found was you will be told to wear a skirt or not enter if you have short shorts on. I have gone in with shorts and short sleeve shirt so some places are not as strict. Cruises: -------- Casual daytime attire is suggested. For occasional special gala evenings, cocktail dress and tie and jacket are suggested. I been on cruises where they did not allow bathing suits in the dinning room but had buffet lunches by the pool so you did not have to change. Breakfast and lunch in the dinning room allowed you come in shorts. Dinner usually people wore something nice but not everyone wore something fancy. Its you choice. I met a man on one cruise and he brought one jacket and wore it everynight know one will notice, they will all be enjoying the cruise. ====================================================================== 11. General info: Sites, museums, monuments =========================================== From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis> ---- General Information ------------------- Archaeological sites and museums remain CLOSED on the following days January 1st, March 25th, Good Friday(morning), Easter Sunday, May 1st December 25th&26th. Opening hours of museums may change without notice. Please check before visiting. Photography Fees ---------------- Taking motion pictures and photographs in museums with a portable camera is permitted (no flash). Photographing at archaeological sites is free. Photographing with a camera mounted on a tripod, without the insertion of live subjects, is allowed in archaeological sites with the permission of the competent Ephorates of Antiquities upon payment of a fee. Apply to: Ministry of Culture and Science 14 Aristidou Street 105 59 Athens Tel: 323-1693 Taking photographs with a camera mounted on a tripod is prohibited in the museums. Those interested in photographs of certain subjects should submit an application to the AFE stating the subjects. The Archaeological Funds and Expropriation 17 Filellinon Street 105 57 Athens Tel: 322-0457 will sell copies of photographs or lend slides from its archives. The use of a video camera also requires a special permit and fee for each and every archaeological site and museum in which it is used. (When at a museum and want to use flash they will have you pay approx 200 - 300 drachmas in 1992. You are then to pin the ticket you get on your shirt. They will follow you untill they are sure you wont use a flash. It was quite amusing when I was in a musuem and the camera I was using has a flash that pops up but can be turned off. Well this guard thought it was going to flash so he tried to get my attention saying nono no flash... but I took the picture in front of him and of course no flash! he just sulked away ...) Entrance fees ------------- Exempted from Entrance Fees: Members of Parliament; Academicians;Foreign artists on presentation of a special card issued by UNESCO; Directors and members of foreign archaeological schoolsin Greece on presentation of a certificate signed by the director of each school; Foreign archaeologists, historians and historians of art, as well as professors of classical studies having a certificate of the educational institution or the professional union where they belong and for a definite period each time; Foreign guides who are supplied with a guiding license issued by the National Tourist Organization; Participants of congresses under the auspices of the Greek Government and offical Guests for one visit in every museum or Archaeological Site; Foreign journalists having any offical certificate from their union; children 12 yrs old and under. NOTE: Special free entrance cards for individuals or groups for one visit in each museum or site can be obtained locally, from the Ephorates of Classical and Byzantine Antiquities or from the Supervisors of the National Archaeological Museum, Byzantine Museum, Epigraphical and Numismatic Collections. for the addresses and phone numbers of the above mentioned Ephorates throughtout Greece, please apply to the National Tourist Organizations of Greece Info office, Tel : 322-3111. Reduced Entrance Fees: ---------------------- Foreign Students upon presentations of their student cards. Foreign students accompanied by their teacher. ====================================================================== 12. Athens Restaurants ===================== ~From: jon@.lindy.Stanford.EDU (Jon Corelis) ~Subject: Some Athens restaurants ~Date: 2 July 1993 Here are some notes on Athens restaurants, resulting from a recent trip there. These restaurants are all in central Athens, and in each case I give the neighborhood or district where the restaurant is located (most maps of Athens will indicate where these districts are.) Except where otherwise noted, all the restaurants mentioned are moderately priced. Most are open only for dinner unless otherwise noted. Many Athens restaurants are closed Sundays, so if you want to try one on that day you should check by phone (your hotel can usually help you do this.) This information was current as of June 1993. Some of the restaurants mentioned below, especially those outside of Plaka, aren't patronized much by tourists. But waiters usually know enough English to help you order, and even if they don't, they usually don't mind taking you into the kitchen to show you what's available. So you shouldn't let a lack of knowing Greek make you hesitate to try any of the more authentic places. In Plaka: Almost all visitors to Athens find themselves spending some time in Plaka, the old neighborhood at the foot of the Acropolis. Plaka is filled with restaurants, most of them serving bad, overpriced food to crowds of tourists. There are some worthwhile establishments, though. One of them is Zeus (in Modern Greek pronounced 'Zefs,') a pleasant small restaurant high on the slope of the Acropolis which despite the fact that it caters very much to tourists serves excellent, simple Greek food at reasonable prices. Tables are all outdoors, and the place usually isn't very crowded, probably because it's something of a climb to get to it, and you have to pass a number of other eateries on the way whose touts tend to rope in most tourists before they get to this one. There are nice views from some of the tables. Try their gigantes (giant beans,) a traditional Greek appetizer which is better here than anywhere else I've had it. To get there from Plaka, find Mnesikleous Street and follow it uphill until you can't go any farther. [Note: as of June 1993 Zeus seemed not to be open for lunch any more, though the restaurant was still there and apparently still in business. I didn't have a chance to check it in the evening to confirm that it's still actually open for dinner. If anyone has any information on this, please email jon@lindy.stanford.edu. Thanks.] Another touristy but good place, which is at Hadrian and Kydathinaion streets right in the middle of Plaka, is Costi's, which serves traditional, somewhat elaborate taverna food. Most tables are outdoors, and it's open for lunch and dinner. The Five Brothers Taverna, near the Tower of the Winds, specializes in game dishes, which are excellent. They also have a full menu of other Greek dishes, which are OK but nothing special. Sigalas, at 2 Monastiraki Square on the edge of Plaka, serves authentic taverna food of the simpler kind in a colorful, bustling atmosphere at lunch and dinner. They have good barrel retsina. In Pangrati: Karavitis, at Pafsaniou and Arktinou in the Pangrati district, remains one of the best traditional tavernas. Open nightly including Sunday. Another good place in the same Pangrati area is Themistokles, at 31 King George (Vas. Georgiou) street. They have the best grilled meatballs in Athens, and a relatively quiet atmosphere for a taverna. The clientele here tends to be older and somewhat conservative, though I've also seen tables of younger people and families. In Kolonaki: Demokritos, at number 23 on the street of the same name, is an altogether excellent taverna with particularly good barrel retsina. Another good traditional taverna in this area is Philippou, at Xenocratou and Ploutarchou. The grilled fish is especially good here. Unlike most tavernas, they are open for lunch as well as dinner. Budget-conscious travellers may be interested in O Vrahos at 8 Lykavitou street on the edge of Kolonaki, which serves simple but good Greek home cooking at remarkably low prices. They have barrel wine, and are open only for lunch. Rodhia, at 44 Aristippou near the base of the Lykavettos funicular, is an upscale taverna with a limited menu -- almost everyone orders the appetizers and the lamb with oregano -- and a very good red barrel wine. Try to get a table in the garden. Somewhat expensive, but worth it. In Exarchia: There are a number of popular inexpensive tavernas in Exarchia, the student district east of the University and National Museum. My own favorite here is Lefka, at the corner of Mavromichaeli and Voulgaroktonou. This long established taverna is a favorite both with locals and also with the English speaking student and academic community in Athens, among whom it is sometimes known by the nick-name "The Green Door." Notes: A long-time popular Kolonaki restaurant, Rouga, has closed. Someone in the neighborhood told us they thought it would be closed permanently. Another old Kolonaki place, Jimmy's Cooking, has turned itself into a sort of snack bar; I didn't try it, but it doesn't look very promising any more. And Okio, which I have reported here before as being in my opinion the best restaurant in Greece, has closed permanently. ====================================================================== End of Tourist Information Part of the FAQ -- Nick (Nikolaos) Fotis National Technical Univ. of Athens, Greece HOME: 16 Esperidon St., InterNet : nfotis@theseas.ntua.gr Halandri, GR - 152 32 UUCP: mcsun!pythia!theseas!nfotis Athens, GREECE FAX: (+30 1) 77 84 578