Archive-name: greek-faq/tourism
Last-modified: 1994/03/31

Soc.Culture.Greek Frequently Asked Questions and Answers
========================================================
(Tourist Information)
=====================
Last Change: 20 July 1993

Many FAQs, including this one, are available on the archive site
rtfm.mit.edu [18.70.0.209] in the directory pub/usenet/news.answers.
The name under which a FAQ is archived appears in the Archive-name line
at the top of the article.
This FAQ is archived as greek-faq/tourism

There's a mail server on that machine. You send a e-mail message to
mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu  containing the keyword "help" (without
quotes!) in the message body.

Items Changed:
--------------
None (Ugh!)
--

Lines which got changed, have the `#' character in front of them.
Added lines are prepended with a `+'
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I have included my comments within braces '[' and ']'.

Nikolaos Fotis

========================================================================

This text is (C)Copyright 1992, 1993, 1994 of Nikolaos C. Fotis. You can copy
freely this file, provided you keep this copyright notice intact.

Compiled by Nikolaos (Nick) C. Fotis, e-mail: nfotis@theseas.ntua.gr

Please contact me for updates,corrections, etc.

Disclaimer: that's only a hasty collection of texts and information as I
(or other people) remember it, so this file is worth only what you paid
for it (and even less! ;-) )

========================================================================

Subjects:
=========

[ NOTE: This part covers  generic tourist information about Greece.
  Your best bet is  to get a travel guide, if  you're seriously
  thinking about traveling to Greece - I'm trying to put there
  references more than data -- nfotis ]

 1. Travel Information -- Greece
 2. GNTO (Greek National Tourism Organisation) addresses
 3. General travelling advice from USENET folks
 4. Average temperatures in Greece
 5. Some items found on a Greek menu
 6. Counting in Greek
 7. Countries in Greek
 8. Months in Greek
 9. Cultural Events : Festivals
10. Clothing suggestions for Greece
11. General info: Sites, museums, monuments
12. Athens Restaurants


======================================================================


1. Travel Information -- Greece
===============================

[ Note: that's a time limited subject. The time you read this, it may
 be already out-of-date, so *please* check with the respective embassies/
 consulates before starting to prepare for a travel to Greece. This
 information has a U.S. bias (of course!) ]

Newsgroup: rec.travel
From: kardaras@ec.ecn.purdue.edu (George S Kardaras)
--------------------------------

Subject: *NEW* TRAVEL INFORMATION -- Greece

STATE DEPARTMENT TRAVEL INFORMATION - Greece
============================================================
Greece - Consular Information Sheet
[ VERSION:  April 29, 1993 ]

Embassy and Consulate Locations:  The U.S. Embassy in Athens is
located at 91 Vasilissis Sophias Boulevard, telephone (30-1)
721-2951.  The Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy may be reached
at (30-1) 721-8561.  The U.S. Consulate in Thessaloniki is located
at 59 Leoforos Nikis, telephone (30-31) 266-121.

 No. 93-078

This replaces the Consular Information Sheet issued October 7,
1992, to provide information on driving conditions in Greece, and to
add information on reporting the loss or theft abroad of a U.S.
passport.

----

Country Description:  Greece is a developed and stable democracy
with a modern economy.  Tourist facilities are widely available.

Entry Requirements:  A passport is required.  A visa is not
required for tourist or business stays up to three months.  An AIDS
test is required for performing artists and students on Greek
scholarships; U.S. test results are not accepted.  For further
information concerning entry requirements to Greece, travelers can
contact the Embassy of Greece at 2221 Massachusetts Avenue, NW,
Washington, DC  20008, telephone (202) 939-5800, or the nearest
Consulate General in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, New Orleans,
New York, or San Francisco.

Medical Facilities:  Medical facilities are available.  U.S.
medical insurance is not always valid outside the United States.
Travelers have found that in some cases, supplemental medical
insurance with specific overseas coverage has proved to be useful.
Further information on health matters can be obtained from the
Centers for Disease Control's international travelers hotline on
(404) 332-4559.


Crime Information:  Greece has a low rate of crime, but some
pickpocketing, purse-snatching, and luggage theft does occur in
Greece at popular tourist areas.  The loss or theft abroad of a U.S.
passport should be reported immediately to the local police and the
nearest U.S. embassy or consulate.  The Department of State's
pamphlet "A Safe Trip Abroad" is available from the Superintendent
of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC
20402.  It provides useful information on guarding valuables and
protecting personal security while traveling abroad.

Terrorist Activities:  Civil disorder is rare.  However, there are
several active terrorist groups, including the "17 November"
organization, which at times has targeted U.S. Government and U.S.
commercial interests.  Between 1975 and 1991, "17 November"
assassinated four Americans assigned to U.S. diplomatic or military
installations in Greece.  Terrorists in Greece have seldom targeted
tourists.

Drug Penalties:  U.S. citizens are subject to the laws of the
country in which they are traveling.  In Greece, penalties for
possession, use, and trafficking in illegal drugs are strict, and
convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and fines.  Arrestees
may spend up to 18 months in pretrial confinement.

Dual Nationality:  U.S. citizens who are also considered to be
Greek citizens could be subject to compulsory military service and
other aspects of Greek law while in Greece.  Those who may be
affected can inquire at a Greek Embassy or consulate to determine
status.  In some instances, dual nationality may hamper U.S.
government efforts to provide protection abroad.

Driving:  Visitors to Greece must be prepared to drive defensively.
Greece has the third highest fatal accident rate in Europe.  High
casualty rates on Greek highways led to a recent toughening of
traffic laws and new increased traffic police presence on major
roads.  The use of motorbikes on the islands can be dangerous
because of heavy traffic and difficulty of the terrain.  The
majority of U.S. citizen traffic casualties in Greece have involved
motorbikes.  Owners of rental motorbikes are not required to carry
insurance coverage; the renter is liable for damages caused to the
rental vehicle and to property of third parties.

Registration:  U.S. citizens who register at the Consular Section
of the U.S. Embassy or Consulate can obtain updated information on
travel and security in Greece.


======================================================================

2. GNTO (Greek National Tourism Organisation) addresses
=======================================================

From: ccc@cs.toronto.edu ("Christina C. Christara")
----

 GNTO (Greek National Tourism Organisation) or EOT (Ellinikos Organismos
 Tourismou) has many offices around the globe. Some of these are:


 645, Fifth Avenue, Olympic Tower
 New York
 N.Y., 10022, U.S.A.
 Tel. 421 57 77

 611, West Sixth Str.,
 Los Angeles,
 California, 90017, U.S.A.
 Tel. 626 66 96

 168 North Michigan Avenue,
 Chicago
 Illinois, 60601
 Tel. 782 10 84

 51-57 Pitt Str.
 Sydney
 N.S.W. 2000, Australia
 Tel. 241 1663/4

 1233 rue de la Montagne
 Montreal
 Quebec, H3G 1Z2, Canada
 Tel. 871 15 35

 68 Scollars Str., Lower Level
 Toronto
 Ontario, M5S 1G2, Canada
 Tel. 968 22 20

 3-16-30 Nishi Azabu, Minato-Ku
 Tokyo 106, Japan
 Tel. 403 18 11

 2 Amerikis Str.
 Athens, Greece
 Tel. (01) 322 31 11

 8, Aristotelous Place
 Thessaloniki, Greece
 Tel. (031) 271 888, 222 935

======================================================================

3. General travelling advice from USENET folks
==============================================
From: ccc@cs.toronto.edu ("Christina C. Christara")
----
1) Don't be disappointed if you find customs/passport officials
"heavy" and impolite.
2) Do not ever show your 5 fingers open from the inside part
of the hand. It is considered a bad gesture. But the outside
part of the hand is ok.
3) Don't pay more than 1500-2000 drs for taxi from Athens airport
to city (unless I am very out-of-date). Sometimes taxi drivers
ask people who look Americans or similar more money than they should.
4) Greece is relatively safe with respect to crime, theft, etc.
(This does not mean that you sleep on a bench and leave your wallet
in open view...)
5) Public transportation is relatively cheap; in some cases crowding
occures.
6) You can buy beer, wine, etc, anywhere anytime, you don't need
any id/age proof.
7) 2:30-5:00 pm is considered "quiet time", mainly in the cities,
but in hotels too. Don't make too much noise during that time.
(People have a big lunch around 2-3pm, and then take a nap.)
Of course, after 12 midnight till 7am is also quiet time.
8) If you drive, take care of pedestrians (and other cars too).
They tend to cross streets "illegally".
9) Few roads in Greece are straight. So if you plan to drive,
don't take into account barely the kilometres, but also whether
you are crossing a mountain, etc. (like in Delphi).
10) Eat a lot of fruit. They are in general of better quality
than fruit found in North America (more fresh, more tasty, more juicy)

======================================================================

4. Average temperatures in Greece
=================================
From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis>
----

Average Temperatures
---------------------
                   Athens and           Thessalonki and
Months            Southern Greece       Northern Greece
------------------------------------------------------------
January             52 F  12 C             45 F   8 C
February            54 F  13 C             51 F  11 C
March               58 F  15 C             54 F  13 C
April               65 F  19 C             65 F  19 C
May                 74 F  24 C             74 F  24 C
June                86 F  30 C             86 F  30 C
July                92 F  33 C             90 F  32 C
August              92 F  33 C             90 F  32 C
September           82 F  28 C             80 F  27 C
October             72 F  23 C             69 F  21 C
November            63 F  18 C             58 F  15 C
December            56 F  14 C             50 F  10 C
 
 
(in degrees)

======================================================================

5. Some items found on a Greek menu
===================================
From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis>
----

Menu Decoder   (this is from one of my travel guides)
------------
 
Most menus are written in Greek and English, but even in the all-Greek
taverna they keep approximately the same layout.
 
kover  - cover charge                entrades - entrees, esp. meat dishes
artos  - bread                       psita - grills
orektika - appetizers                tis oras - ala minute/while you wait
soupes - soups                       salatas - salads
zymarika - pasta                     tyria - cheeses
psaria - fish                        frouta - fruit
thalassina - seafood                 glyka - sweets
ladera - vegetables cooked in oil    pota - drinks
kymades - minced meat                byres - beer
oinoi leykoi/erythroi/kokkineli - white/red/rose wines (written in
                                                       katharevousa)
anapsyktika - soft drinks
 
When the menu is handwritten and illegible, go into the kitchen and
look in the pots (lots of places want you to go and point out your choice)
 
Aginares a la polita - small artichokes cooked in a white onion-celery-
sauce.
Ahinos - sea urchin.    Angouri - cucumber.  Araka - green peas.
Ahladi - pear.  Arnaki galaktos - baby lamb. Astakos - crayfish/lobster.
Arni - lamb
 ( a) exohiko - baked country-style with peas, potatoes and cheese in flaky
      pastry
   b) frikase - sauteed with lettuce, spring onions and dill in egg and
      lemon.)
Avgolemono - chicken broth with rice, lemon and egg
Baklava - thin pastry layers stuffed with nuts and spices, doused in syrup.
Barbounia - red mullet, possibly the best Greek fish.
Bougatsa - custard tart.   Damaskina - plums.    Grep - grapefruit.
Dolmades - vine or cabbage leaves rolled and stuffed with meat and/or rice.
Dolmadakia - tiny Dolmades.
Elies - olives (best from Delphi - large purple and Kalamata(pointed black)
Fakies - lentils, often in soup.
Fasolia - white beans often in soup with vegetables.
Galaktoboureko - flaky pastry with a custard filling, doused with syrup.
Feta - most popular Greek cheese, salty and white made from goats milk.
Horiatiki - peasant salad with cucumber,tomato,onio,olives and feta.
Kadaifi - shredded-wheat pastry with nuts, soaked in syrup.
Karpouzi - watermelon.   Kotopoulo - chicken.

======================================================================

6. Counting in Greek
====================
From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis>
----

  english     greek
  -------    ----------
  one         EHnahss, meeAH, EHnah
  two         DHEEo
  three       TREEah
  four        TEHssehrah
  five        PEHNdeh
  six         EHksee
  seven       ehpTAH
  eight       okTO
  nine        ehneeAH
  ten         DHEHkah


======================================================================

7. Countries in Greek
=====================
From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis>
----

Lets try the question : Where do you come from?
 
English                   Greek
---------               ----------
Africa                    aHFREEKEE
Asia                      ahSSEEah
Australia                 ahfstrahLEEah
Europe                    ehvROppee
North America             VOrreeoss ahmehreeKEE
South America             NOtteeoss ahmehreeKEE
Albania                   ahlvahNEEah
Canada                    kahnahDHAH
Germany                   yehrmahNEEah
Greece                    ehLAHdhah
South Africa              NOtteeoss ahfreeKEE
Spain                     eespahNEEah
Turkey                    tooRKEEah
United States             eenoMMEHnehss polleeTEEehss

======================================================================

8. Months in Greek
==================
From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis>
----

Lets try Months this time....
 
English              Greek
------               -------
January          eeahnooAHreeoss
February         fehvrooAHreeoss
March            MAHRteeoss
April            ahPREEleeooss
May              MAHeeoss
June             eeOOneeoss
July             eeOOleeoss
August           AHVghoostoss
September        sehpTEHMvreeoss
October          oKTOvreeoss
November         noEHMvreeoss
December         dhehKEHMvreeoss
 
some phrases:
in September                 to sehpTEHMvreeo
since October                ahPO tonn oKTOvreeo
the beginning of January     ee ahRKHEHSS too eeahnooahREEoo
the middle of February       tah MEHssah too fehvrooahREEoo
the end of March             tah TEHlee too mahrTEEoo

======================================================================

9. Cultural Events : Festivals
==============================
From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis>
----

Here is information on various Festivals held in Greece.
 
THE ATHENS FESTIVAL
___________________
Greece's internationally acclaimed Athens Festival light up summer nights
in Athens.  Performances of prominent companies are stages from June through
September in the ancient open-air amphitheater, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus
at the foot of the Acropolis.
 
The 5,000 seat theater, specially designed for musical and dramatic
performances in 161 A.D. was commissioned by the wealthy Roman benefactor,
Herodes Atticus, in memory of his late wife.  Decorated in marble and
monumental in size, it has served as a vital part of Greek culture since
ancient times when musicans, dancers, dramatists and poets performed in
festivals for the favor of the gods.
 
The panorama of the Parthenon is the theater's productions, making todays
performances even more breathtaking for audiences arriving from throughtout
the world.
 
Tickets are less costly than they would be back home.  They range from $4.00
to $40.00, depending on the performance, and can be obtained through the
Athens Festival office on Voukourestiou Street or at the Box Office.  Visitors
are advised to buy tickets upon arrival in Athens.  Most performances begin
at 9 p.m.
 
(Studentid cards might help to get discounts)
 
EPIDAURUS FESTIVAL
------------------
Inaugurated in 1954, the Epidaurus Festival was soon established as a world
renowned tradition of ancient Greek drama performances.  The ancient theater
at Epidaurus (seating capacity of 14,000) was built to plans drawn by the
architect Polycleitos the Younger in the 3rd century B.C. and is famous
for its accoustics and beauty.  Excursion clubs and travel agencies combine
attendance to the performances with visits to the archaeological sites
at Epidaurus and Argolis.
 
The Festival is held during weekends July through September, and performances
start at 9 p.m.
 
(if you can visit this theatre and site.  I have not seen a performance
there but the site itself is worth the visit)

Philipi and Thassos Festival
-----------------------------
July-August-September
Ancient drama performances are also given in the ancient theatres at
Philippi and on the island of Thassos.
 
 
Patras International Festival
-----------------------------
June-August
Various artisitc performances, art exhibitions, etc. are taking place
in Patras, capital of the Peloponnese.
 
 
Dodoni Festival
---------------
July-September
Performances of historic drama are likewise given in the ancient theatre
at Dodoni.
 
 
Lycabettus Theater
------------------
Mid June-Late August
Various artistic performances are given during the summer season in the
open air theater on Lycabettus (Likavitos) Hill.
 
 
Sound and Light
---------------
Early April-Late October
Performances are given in Athens and Rhodes in several foreign languages
Also in Corfu from mid-May to late September.
 
 
Film Festival and Festival of Popular Song at Thessaloniki
----------------------------------------------------------
As part of the Thessaloniki International Trade Fair, a Festival of
Greek Popular Song is held in the Palais de Sports which is located inside
the grounds of the fair.  As soon as the Fair is over, two interesting
festivals of Greek and foreign films are organized.  Both events take
place in the theatre of the Association of Macedonian Studies.
 
a) September Greek Song Festival
b) Beginning of October, Greek & Foreign Film Festival

The Thessaloniki Demetria Festival
----------------------------------
As a part of the border program which accompanies the International
Trade Fair, there is an annual October series of theartical, musical,
ballet, and operatic performances, given by Greek and foreign companies
as a revival of the tradition of Byzantine festive events in the
capital of Macadonia.
 
Folk Dancing(I saw this company perform and they are GREAT)
------------
From May to September each year, there are performances of Greek Dancing
at the open-air theater on Filopappus Hill in Athens, presented by
the Dora Stratou song and ballet troupe, which is well known throughtout
the world.  Tel:324-4395 (8am - 2pm), 921-4650, after 5:30pm
(This theatre is located accross from the Acropolis, I recommend this
event, to see the different dances from around Greece. )
 
On the island of Rhodes, from June to October every year, the Nelly
Dimoglou troupe presents Greek folk dancing in the theater of the old
town of Rhodes. Tel:(0241)20157
 
Theater
------
Classical and modern repertoire is presented in Athenian theaters all
year round.  The two organized State Theatrical companies, the National
Theater in Athens and the Northern Greece National Theater at Thessaloniki
follow the festival program organized by the G.N.T.O. In winter, they
present noteworthy plays by Greek and foreign playwrights.
 
The Lyric Theater
-----------------
Known in Greece as the Lyriki Skini, it presents its performances at
Olympia Theater at 59, Akadimias Street, in Athens.  Various operatic
plays are performed, often starring foreign artists.  In summer, the
Lyriki Skini transfers its activities to the Herod Atticus Odeon by
participating in the Athens Festival.

======================================================================

10. Clothing suggestions for Greece
===================================
From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis>
----

CLOTHING SUGGESTIONS FOR TRAVELING TO/IN GREECE
 
Summer: May through September
-----------------------------
Casual clothing made of lightweight fabrics and good walking shoes are
essential.  A shawl, sweater and/or jacket is recommended for cooler
evening breezes (depending on temperature of the day and visiting
location in Greece).
 
I suggest bring a jacket or sweater . When I have been in the mountains
and cruising a jacket was handy.  Last summer I was in Athens when it
rained and I was glad I had the jacket.
 
Winter: Mid November through Mid March
--------------------------------------
A wardrobe of matching coordinates, made of manmade fibers and/or wool
which allow for minimum and maximum warmth for varying temperatures is
suggested.  A topcoat with Zip-out lining is also advised.
 
Spring/Fall: Mid March through April; October through Mid November
------------------------------------------------------------------
Lightweight wools or topcoat are suggested.
 
Dining:
-------
Informal attire, except for some selected resturants which require tie
and jacket for men.
 
Casinos:
--------
Dress is more formal than in North America.  Jacket and tie mandatory
for men.
 
Archaeological Sites:
---------------------
Swimsuits are prohibited.
Wear comfortable shoes, parts are rocky, hot, and its possible to slide
wear the marble has worn down to a smooth finish.Some sites you do
a lot of climbing and it can be difficult on the feet if not supported.
 
Monasteries and Churches:
-------------------------
Women are required to wear appropriate length dresses or skirt with
sleeved blouse.  Men are required to wear slacks and a shirt.
What I found was you will be told to wear a skirt or not enter if you
have short shorts on.  I have gone in with shorts and short sleeve shirt
so some places are not as strict.
 
Cruises:
--------
Casual daytime attire is suggested.  For occasional special gala
evenings, cocktail dress and tie and jacket are suggested.
I been on  cruises where they did not allow bathing suits in the dinning
room but had buffet lunches by the pool so you did not have to change.
Breakfast and lunch in the dinning room allowed you come in shorts.
Dinner usually people wore something nice but not everyone wore something
fancy.  Its you choice.  I met a man on one cruise and he brought one
jacket and wore it everynight know one will notice, they will all be
enjoying the cruise.
 
======================================================================

11. General info: Sites, museums, monuments
===========================================
From: G0900@vmcms.csuohio.edu <Katherine Pasalis>
----

General Information
-------------------
Archaeological sites and museums remain CLOSED on the following days
January 1st, March 25th, Good Friday(morning), Easter Sunday, May 1st
December 25th&26th.
Opening hours of museums may change without notice.  Please check before
visiting.
 
Photography Fees
----------------
Taking motion pictures and photographs in museums with a portable
camera is permitted (no flash).
Photographing at archaeological sites is free.
Photographing with a camera mounted on a tripod, without the insertion
of live subjects, is allowed in archaeological sites with the permission
of the competent Ephorates of Antiquities upon payment of a fee.
 
Apply to:
Ministry of Culture and Science
14 Aristidou Street
105 59 Athens
Tel: 323-1693
 
Taking photographs with a camera mounted on a tripod is prohibited in
the museums.  Those interested in photographs of certain subjects should
submit an application to the AFE stating the subjects.
 
The Archaeological Funds and Expropriation
17 Filellinon Street
105 57 Athens
Tel: 322-0457
 
will sell copies of photographs or lend slides from its archives.
 
The use of a video camera also requires a special permit and fee for each
and every archaeological site and museum in which it is used.
 
 
(When at a museum and want to use flash they will have you pay approx
200 - 300 drachmas in 1992.  You are then to pin the ticket you get on
your shirt.  They will follow you untill they are sure you wont use
a flash.  It was quite amusing when I was in a musuem and the camera
I was using has a flash that pops up but can be turned off. Well this
guard thought it was going to flash so he tried to get my attention
saying nono no flash... but I took the picture in front of him and of
course no flash!  he just sulked away ...)
 
Entrance fees
-------------
Exempted from Entrance Fees:

Members of Parliament; Academicians;Foreign artists on presentation of
a special card issued by UNESCO; Directors and members of foreign
archaeological schoolsin Greece on presentation of a certificate
signed by the director of each school; Foreign archaeologists,
historians and historians of art, as well as professors of classical
studies having a certificate of the educational institution or the
professional union where they belong and for a definite period each time;
Foreign guides who are supplied with a guiding license issued by the
National Tourist Organization; Participants of congresses under the
auspices of the Greek Government and offical Guests for one visit in every
museum or Archaeological Site; Foreign journalists having any offical
certificate from their union; children 12 yrs old and under.
 
NOTE: Special free entrance cards for individuals or groups for one
visit in each museum or site can be obtained locally, from the Ephorates
of Classical and Byzantine Antiquities or from the Supervisors of the
National Archaeological Museum, Byzantine Museum, Epigraphical and
Numismatic Collections.
 
for the addresses and phone numbers of the above mentioned
Ephorates throughtout Greece, please apply to the
National Tourist Organizations of Greece Info office, Tel : 322-3111.
 
Reduced Entrance Fees:
----------------------
Foreign Students upon presentations of their student cards.
Foreign students accompanied by their teacher.
 
======================================================================

12. Athens Restaurants
=====================

~From: jon@.lindy.Stanford.EDU (Jon Corelis)
~Subject: Some Athens restaurants
~Date: 2 July 1993

 Here are some notes on Athens restaurants, resulting from a recent
trip there. These restaurants are all in central Athens, and in
each case I give the neighborhood or district where the restaurant is
located (most maps of Athens will indicate where these districts are.)
Except where otherwise noted, all the restaurants mentioned are
moderately priced. Most are open only for dinner unless otherwise
noted. Many Athens restaurants are closed Sundays, so if you want to
try one on that day you should check by phone (your hotel can usually
help you do this.)   This information was current as of June 1993.

 Some of the restaurants mentioned below, especially those outside of
Plaka, aren't patronized much by tourists.  But waiters usually know
enough English to help you order, and even if they don't, they usually
don't mind taking you into the kitchen to show you what's available.  So
you shouldn't let a lack of knowing Greek make you hesitate to try any
of the more authentic places.


 In Plaka:

 Almost all visitors to Athens find themselves spending some time in
Plaka, the old neighborhood at the foot of the Acropolis. Plaka is
filled with restaurants, most of them serving bad, overpriced food to
crowds of tourists. There are some worthwhile establishments, though.
One of them is Zeus (in Modern Greek pronounced 'Zefs,') a pleasant
small restaurant high on the slope of the Acropolis which despite the
fact that it caters very much to tourists serves excellent, simple Greek
food at reasonable prices. Tables are all outdoors, and the place
usually isn't very crowded, probably because it's something of a climb
to get to it, and you have to pass a number of other eateries on the way
whose touts tend to rope in most tourists before they get to this one.
There are nice views from some of the tables. Try their gigantes (giant
beans,) a traditional Greek appetizer which is better here than anywhere
else I've had it.  To get there from Plaka, find Mnesikleous Street and
follow it uphill until you can't go any farther.  [Note:  as of June
1993 Zeus seemed not to be open for lunch any more, though the
restaurant was still there and apparently still in business.  I didn't
have a chance to check it in the evening to confirm that it's still
actually open for dinner.  If anyone has any information on this,
please email jon@lindy.stanford.edu.  Thanks.]

 Another touristy but good place, which is at Hadrian and Kydathinaion
streets right in the middle of Plaka, is Costi's, which serves
traditional, somewhat elaborate taverna food. Most tables are outdoors,
and it's open for lunch and dinner.

 The Five Brothers Taverna, near the Tower of the Winds, specializes in
game dishes, which are excellent.  They also have a full menu of other
Greek dishes, which are OK but nothing special.

 Sigalas, at 2 Monastiraki Square on the edge of Plaka, serves
authentic taverna food of the simpler kind in a colorful, bustling
atmosphere at lunch and dinner. They have good barrel retsina.
 
 In Pangrati:                        
  
 Karavitis, at Pafsaniou and Arktinou in the Pangrati district,
remains one of the best traditional tavernas. Open nightly including
Sunday.

 Another good place in the same Pangrati area is Themistokles, at 31
King George (Vas. Georgiou) street.  They have the best grilled
meatballs in Athens, and a relatively quiet atmosphere for a taverna.
The clientele here tends to be older and somewhat conservative, though
I've also seen tables of younger people and families.

 In Kolonaki:

 Demokritos, at number 23 on the street of the same name, is an
altogether excellent taverna with particularly good barrel retsina.

 Another good traditional taverna in this area is Philippou, at
Xenocratou and Ploutarchou.  The grilled fish is especially good here.
Unlike most tavernas, they are open for lunch as well as dinner.

 Budget-conscious travellers may be interested in O Vrahos at 8
Lykavitou street on the edge of Kolonaki, which serves simple but good
Greek home cooking at remarkably low prices.  They have barrel wine,
and are open only for lunch.

 Rodhia, at 44 Aristippou near the base of the Lykavettos funicular,
is an upscale taverna with a limited menu -- almost everyone orders the
appetizers and the lamb with oregano -- and a very good red barrel wine.
Try to get a table in the garden. Somewhat expensive, but worth it.

 In Exarchia:

 There are a number of popular inexpensive tavernas in Exarchia, the
student district east of the University and National Museum.  My own
favorite here is Lefka, at the corner of Mavromichaeli and
Voulgaroktonou.  This long established taverna is a favorite both with
locals and also with the English speaking student and academic community
in Athens, among whom it is sometimes known by the nick-name "The Green
Door."

 Notes:

 A long-time popular Kolonaki restaurant, Rouga, has closed. Someone in
the neighborhood told us they thought it would be closed permanently.
Another old Kolonaki place, Jimmy's Cooking, has turned itself into a
sort of snack bar; I didn't try it, but it doesn't look very promising
any more.  And Okio, which I have reported here before as being in my
opinion the best restaurant in Greece, has closed permanently.


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End of Tourist Information Part of the FAQ
-- 
Nick (Nikolaos) Fotis         National Technical Univ. of Athens, Greece
HOME: 16 Esperidon St.,       InterNet : nfotis@theseas.ntua.gr
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